Flying South...

Who turned up the humidity down south? Other than having the flight attendants strap Kaia's scooter in a first class seat, our travel to Guangzhou went off without a hitch. Being we have been here twice before, with one of those times being for 10 days straight, we feel quite comfortable here. However, things feel quite different than they have previously. We definitely notice less Westerners traveling here. And we're not just talking about less for adoption. Our guide told us we have an "old" (he was probably around 60) guide because young people don't want to be a tour guide in Guangzhou. There's not much money in it, because people aren't coming there to see the sites, as it has mainly become a place for migrants to find jobs. Beijing, Shanghai, and Xi'an have all done a good job drawing foreigners, so the Guanzhou government is not putting money in to compete. Felt a little sorry for him...

One place we really noticed the lack of foreigners was on Shamian Island. In the early 2000's, this island with a strong European feel, was hopping with shops and hotels that catered to the adoption population. We did not stay there either trip, but we did shop there.  Well this time we stayed there, and in our time we only saw one other western family. Our hotel, which is still one of two well known ones on the island, was musty and not seemingly busy.  However, we still enjoyed walking around the island. We were happy to see that it was bustling with Chinese people, and is still a very beautiful and meticulous place to visit.  There were only a couple shops that still had a touristy feel, and oh yeah, Starbucks moved in.  It was a beautiful store front though, that fit right in with the theme of the island.

Catholic Church on island

Found a turtle. You can gauge humidity by this little girls' hair!

Adoptive families know of the White Swan and the red couches. We visited the beautiful lobby, but no more red couches.

Love the Banyan trees on the island.

Saw more than one wedding photo shoot on the island.

But I'm jumping ahead, as we made a detour before we even arrived at the island. Turns out that Guangdong Province is the only one that keeps the orphanage paperwork archived. Our guide had petitioned the paperwork before we came, so it was ready when we arrived at the government building. It felt sort of like being in a library. We had to show our passports, were led into a big quiet room, and sat at a large table looking through Kaia's files. Our guide translated as we paged through the file. We weren't allowed to take photos, but were given paper and pencil to write notes. Most of the papers we already had copies of, along with translations of most. However, we were happy to learn more about a few things, such as her birth measurements, and a police report of when she was found.  I will not share all the details, as they are Kaia's story to share, but we were all pleased to find out more about our beautiful daughter's beginnings. More on this in a bit.

Family photo in the lobby to the government archive building.

We said goodbye to the hotel the next morning, as we were heading to the next city over, Foshan, where we would be spending one night. The two cities are literally next to one another, but due to traffic, and the orphanage being on the far side of the city (Nanhai District), the tour guide thought we would want to stay a night in Foshan and experience the local history. Glad he suggested it.  New fact learned that Joshua would be excited about: Foshan is known as the modern home of Kung Fu, and the origin of Ip Man (Josh loves the Ip Man Kung Fu movies), who taught Bruce Lee.

We arrived at the orphanage, which had more buildings in the neighborhood than I remember from 12 years ago. We were greeted by a familiar looking face. I flipped through the photo album I brought, I stopped on the photo of the sweet young lady who brought Kaia to us. When I showed it to her (Min), she nodded that yes, this was her.  She also informed us that she was the one who named Kaia. Not sure whether or not this was intentional, but it was special for us to meet her again.

Kaia has changed a lot; Min, not so much!

She took us on a tour of the facilities, but we weren't allowed to interact with the children. They said some had been "sick." We did get to go into a room of children in a school room to say hi. Was nice to see children with disabilities included in the classroom.

Where Kaia slept her first 8.5 months.

We met the new director who took over a year or so ago. She was very welcoming to us, and mothering to Kaia. She put her arm around Kaia, and seemed genuinely impressed when Kaia shared a video of her tumbling at the school talent show. Kaia was able to present some pillow case dresses that students made at the Martin Luther King Day of Service our school held.

Kaia and the director.

Look at the proud smile on Kaia's face.

When we adopted Kaia, we were told that the paperwork said her finding place was an Industrial Garden (factory). A couple years later we hired someone to take photos of her finding place. We were told that the interpretation was a flower shop that didn't exist anymore, so our money was returned. So through the help of our guide Daniel, and Min, we found that both interpretations were correct. So following a few minutes of the two chatting and looking at Google maps on her phone, we were on our merry way. After a drive across the city, we came upon a more industrial area, surrounded by lots of apartments. I think we stopped 3 or 4 times asking questions of locals, to which the response was always pointing in the same direction. Suddenly we came upon a large plant nursery. It was a little strange; seemed like a nursery selling plants, as most of them were in pots, yet there were no signs or prices anywhere. I'm still a little unsure of what the purpose of the land is. Perhaps they sell not to the public, but to businesses? We got out of the car when I saw a lone older lady walking out of the nursery. I asked Daniel to inquire who owned this land. She responded that her relatives own it, and that she has worked there for 20 years. Does she remember anyone ever finding a baby? She gladly made a call to her family to ask. Hoping the answer would be yes, I have to admit I was disappointed when she said no. Still, grateful for the timing of her being there at the exact moment we were, as she was on her way out, and no one else was around.  We spent a few minutes walking around the grounds. What a serene place in the midst of what is most likely surrounded by apartments full of migrant workers, coming from distant provinces to find work.

Phoning her relatives, the owners of the nursery

Walking the grounds.

My sweet girl.

Forgot the selfie stick!

Distant apartment buildings enveloping the nursery.

After thinking we would never find it, we were completely pleased that we were able to find the nursery. We finished our time with Min at a lovely restaurant next door to the orphanage. There we had one of our favorite meals of the entire trip. I so wish we had taken a photo of a delicious pastry we had. It was a roll, intricately detailed as a walnut. Inside was a walnut, swimming in a sea of a sweet creme. If I hadn't have been eating with strangers, I would've just eaten that dish!

Over the meal, Daniel interpreted as we asked questions back and forth with Min, and the photographer who accompanied us to the meal.  One sweet observation she made was that when we adopted in 2004 and 2006, the majority of adoptions were of "healthy" babies, yet she noticed we had chosen special needs adoptions. She was surprised by this, but letting us know that she thought highly of us. At that point, Daniel told us that the worker at the archives office made the same comment about us.  We explained that this was something God put on our hearts, and that we all have something unique about us, and that it is what is on the inside that is most important. We also told them that we receive from the girls as much as we give; it's a win-win. This is a major reason why I keep returning to China. Some major cultural shifts need to take place, and I believe they are, even if slowly.

That day was a lot to absorb. We spent the evening strolling around the area near our hotel, and called it an early night. And although I didn't think I would find one, we actually happened upon a Starbucks that had a Foshan mug for my collection! We also found these micro Mc'D's. We passed several along the way, and they just sell ice cream from these walk-up windows. Jaelyn just had to try a McFlurry in a box!

The next morning we headed out early to two local historical sites, Liangs' Garden and the Foshan Ancestral Temple. Both were lovely, but admittedly we tried to hang out in the shaded areas!

Liang's Garden

Liang's Garden

Jack fruit tree

Liang's Garden

She's literally fishing out the money that had been thrown in to the turtles the previous day. Not sure exactly what the snake and turtle represent, but the Chinese are very superstitious. Note the real turtles to the left.

Remember when I said Foshan was the modern capital of Kung Fu? When at the temple, we got to watch young men and women perform from a local school.

These poor boys in these costumes; it was so humid! They actually jumped around on the green polls in the background too. Quite impressive balance. Many people placed money inside the lions mouth, guessing again, for luck or prosperity.

We headed back to our original hotel in Guangzhou, where we then ventured out on the Subway. Our goal was to eat at the Banana Leaf, a fun, interactive Thai restaurant we had eaten at on both of our previous trips here. The food was great, the atmosphere fun. If only the girls weren't so tired! They seated us on the most comfortable couch like seats, and Kaia immediately curled up like a kitten, ready to take a long snooze. Jaelyn and Mike were part of the entertainment as they danced and sang to "I Want to Hold Your Hand."  Kaia would have nothing of it. We all enjoyed eating the peanut roti. It was as tasty as I remembered. It's like a fried peanut butter sandwich, only on a thin pancake/tortilla like bread. Yum!

We rode the Subway back, followed by our almost nightly ice cream bar (wish I took a photo of it; so tasty, and only 3-5 yuan each), then back to our joining rooms, as we say goodbye to southern China in the morning, and head far north.

Xi'an (Shee-in)...

Our flight went without a hitch, and we were happy to be on a new adventure. The hotel lobby was quite nice (they are typically quite elegant in China, with rooms being on the smaller side with two rock hard single beds).  Some of the sites in and around our hotel...

This wall was gigantic. It was in an outdoor area just behind the hotel check-in desk.

Koi pond just below the above wall.

Loved this view from the room I shared with Kaia. That's a still active ancient Buddhist nunnery next to the hotel tennis court! Just like the monks, the nuns shave their heads and wear the traditional robes. And a ways beyond this, our view took in a Muslim Mosque. Such a diverse area.

This view is from Mike and Jaelyn's room. This gives you just a taste of traffic in China. We frequented the mini mart and bakery that were across this street, so we got used to the crazy frogger-like experience.

We had most the afternoon to rest and explore. That evening we were herded up and on our way to a very entertaining Tang Dynasty dumpling dinner and show.  We weren't disappointed.

Bonding time at their own table. Unbeknownst to them, when the lights were dimmed for the show, three of the four would fall asleep from exhaustion! I won't say which...)

Chinese culture stresses the full experience of  food, meaning the presentation is as important as the taste. Can you guess what three flavors we had in these dumplings? If you guessed vegetables, duck and frog, then you are right! We also tried 12 other types, all beautifully handcrafted.

This style of dance is called "Sleeve Dance." I think you can see why.

The ornately dressed cast, representing the Tang Dynasty, from the night's performance.

Ancient City Wall all lit up at night, that we will visit in a couple days. The area around the gate is bustling with nightlife.

Besides being able to watch my daughters experience their home countries, the one thing I wanted to do most on this trip was to see the Terra-Cotta Warriors. It did not disappoint. On this second day in Xi'an, we got to see how the warriors and horses were made, learn the history, and visit the pits for ourselves. Even the large crowds and heat could not discourage us!

Tedious work. Did you know you can have a warrior made with your own liking for its' head?!

Over 6,000 warriors and horses in this pit alone, and each one is unique!

Lunchtime noodle master!

After lunch stop at at the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, another working Buddhist temple. Due to a slight lean, it was under repair, so we could not go up it like visitors usually can.

Another highlight of my day; the first of four Starbuck's city mugs I added to my collection while in China.

When you ask Kaia what her favorite activities in China was, she will tell you it was riding a bicycle on the Ancient City Wall of Xi'an.  The 600+ year old wall is the most complete ancient wall in all of China, and you can ride a bike around all nine miles of it! That's how we started our morning off.  Mike and Kaia peddled one tandem. She was so happy to be able to participate in something physical. Jaelyn and I raced rode tandem too. Although the wall was flat, it was very bumpy, like constantly driving on a rumble strip. Your hands start to go numb and itch after awhile. Not to mention, Jaelyn and I almost got taken out not once, but twice by teenagers on their phones while riding oncoming bikes!

The entire group before the ride.

About a quarter of the way through, stopped for a photo opportunity.

Mike took a panoramic shot on his phone from one of the corners.

Don't get many of just us. About halfway through. You can see how wide the city wall is. Notice the tall buildings to the right of me. They aren't allowed inside the city wall, to the left.

Teamwork.

Beautiful roof to a Taoist Temple inside the wall.

The girls kept encouraging Mike and I to make a race of it at the ending, but Mike and I settled on riding across the finish, side by side, hands clasped together, raised high over head. The girls did not like this at all. Evidently Mike didn't either, as he didn't keep his word, leaving Jaelyn and I in the dust across the finish. We're still plotting how to get him back.

Nearing the finish line with the traitors.

That afternoon we visited a history museum, but frankly it was so hot and crowded that for the most part, our family found a place to sit down and rest! Good thing we did, as it allowed us to hit the streets later in the afternoon/evening. Our goal was to find the Muslim neighborhood to experience the market. We thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

So thankful to have found Starbucks following a long walk on a hot and humid day. Picked us back up for the rest of the evening.

The entrance to the Muslim market street. Look closely and you can see the crowds getting thicker, as well as the smoke. What's really crazy is that there was still the occasional moped and car that still came down this street.

Guessing lamb. Once eaten, the sticks were placed in buckets on the street and recycled. Didn't realize they were so green here!

Goat? Lamb? Didn't gamble in trying.

Fried Crab or Octopus on a stick, anyone?

Know what those red things are framing the shop? Notice the men grinding in the background?

The final product, something hot and spicy from the peppers. I was afraid to try the samples when I was low on water!

Now for dessert....taffy anyone?

Or is cotton candy shaped as a flower more your style?

For our last full day in Xi'an, we headed to the country side. We began the visit with a painting lesson by a nationally known artist, Pan XiaoLing,  who paints in the peasant folk style that was made famous in the 1950's when Mao wanted to make the countryside more appealing. Paper cutting, embroidery, water colors, were all on display. She taught a quick lesson, to which I felt overwhelmed to recreate, but I kept a good attitude. Mike was much more focused than I...

Girls with the artist and the painting we bought.

 We then walked to one of the farmer's homes, where we participated in preparing the delicious meal.

Cutting the corn bread.

Mike's turn.

Preparing the noodles.

Rolling, rolling, rolling...

The final touch.

This is the homeowner, demonstrating how to cut a "simple" butterfly.

The one's she whipped out. She cut them all at the same time.

She was going to have us cut the butterflies, but since we were obvious rookies, she wisely decided to switch to the "double happiness" character. I forgot to take a photo of the final piece, but let's just say it wasn't quite as detailed as hers.

My favorite food while in China, Chinese Eggplant, growing outside her home! I had it nearly everyday we were in China, in some form. Miss it so...

Our time in Xi'an was amazing, but grander things to come. We said goodbye to the three other families we had been traveling with for the past eight days. Some were heading home, others to various home provinces of their daughters.  Check back for my next to trip posts...